Diary excerpt from my days in Rotorua, NZ

“The Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland is an 18km² reserve covered in craters, caves, pools, geysers and other formations. There are three hiking trails, colour-coded red, orange and yellow in order of difficulty. The guide tells us we have time for the first, plus the second if we hurry. I set off at a brisk pace and soon find myself passing such natural wonders as the Devil’s Ink Pots. Standing alone on a bridge over a sulphurous pond, surrounded by smoke, is an unforgettable experience. I proceed from the red trail onto the orange, then contemplate starting the yellow until a sign warns me it takes 75 minutes. Reluctantly return to the carpark. Non-one else has bothered with the second trail and they are all waiting for me.”